India 2011 印度

India is extremely hot and loud and chaotic
With no air no pause no logic
Everything is so messed up so perfectly messed up
That makes her an irresistibly charming place that you will never forget

印度是极度的闷热 嘈吵 混乱
没有生风 没有停顿 没有逻辑
一切就是很混乱 绝对的很混乱

Sri Lanka > Maldives > India > Nepal > Tibet - 2011 - 斯里兰卡 > 马尔代夫 > 印度 > 尼泊尔 > 西藏

India Itinerary 印度行程 – New Delhi > Varanasi > Agra > Jaipur > Jaisalmer

Arriving in India in late May allowed us to feel the real flame of the country, we were sweating every single second no matter what we were doing. It wasn't just very hot but also very very dry, that I felt like I was becoming 20 years older, having wrinkles appearing all over my face. Also we felt like dehydrating all the time, that we kept drinking like 5 litres of water a day and still we wanted more.


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Our first night in New Delhi, the capital of India, was quite a memorable one, we landed in a totally different world after having our fast and clean train transporting us from the very modern airport to New Delhi Station, the heart of the city. The roads were full of moving people, running traffics and walking animals; we were smelling curry, seeing dust, and hearing all sorts of loud sound, all at the same time. Our pre-booked hostel Smyle Inn was hidden inside one of the million alleyways in the Main Bazaar; the backpacker-oriented area that sells all kinds of bargain stocks. We managed to find our hostel in the dark and we also managed to sleep in our bloody crap room that had no air-conditioning under 38 °C. Yes it was very uneasy to let ourselves fall asleep but I guess we were kinda testing our limitation wanting to know how hot we could bear!! Well, after we passed our test we moved to My Inn the next day, a much better hostel not only having air-conditioning but also WiFi in the reception. The price of our lodging in New Delhi was the highest among all the places we visited in India, still all the prices were considered very cheap to us and we never paid more than USD $10 per person for everywhere we stayed.

我们在印度首都新德里 (New Delhi) 的第一个晚上也真难忘,在乘搭过一辆非常干净快捷的列车由机场到达市中心的 New Delhi Station 之后,我们完全的进入了另一个世界。马路上到处都是行走着的人群、来往中的车辆、以及移动着的禽畜;同时间我们闻到咖哩的味道、看到沙尘的移动、还有听到嘈吵的声响。我们预订了的旅馆 Smyle Inn 躲藏于 Main Bazzar 这个背包客集中地里面的其中一条小巷之中。这里是个非常热闹区域,到处都可见小贩商铺,售卖各式各款的廉价货品。我们勉强的在黑夜之中找到了旅馆,也非常勉强的在38 °C极高温之下于没有冷气的垃圾房间里面睡了一整晚。对呵真的是超难入睡!其实我们都是在挑战极限!看大家能抵多热!当我们成功通过抵热测试之后,第二天我们搬进了对面的 My Inn,这是一间蛮好的旅馆,不单房间有冷气,大堂还有 WiFi。在印度整个旅程的住宿里面,虽然新德里的价钱经已是最贵,但我们还是很觉得便宜,因为我们每人每晚都未曾付出多过 USD $10 的房租。

We visited a number of landmarks around New Delhi, including Red Fort, Indian Gate, Qutub Minar and Safdarjung Tomb. We were taking underground for most of the travel, however the distance between the stations and landmarks were all far away, and the walks could took us up to 30 minutes or more to reach where we wanted to go.

我们在 New Delhi 到过好几个景点,包括 Red Fort,Indian Gate,Qutub Minar 以及 Safdarjung Tomb。基本上我们都是乘搭地铁,可是地铁站与景点的距离却又很远,很多时候我们要走起码30分钟的时间才能够到达我们想去的地方。

The Indian train must be one of the most exciting and frustrating thing to do in India. All our trains were long distance overnight trains and we all wanted to secure our AC2 (air-conditioning second class) berths because we didn't want to end up standing all night long in the packed and steaming third class, therefore we booked our tickets 3 months in advance from since we knew the tickets could sold out within hours once the system opens its sales 90 days before departure; most of us could get "confirmed" seat for most of our journeys but some of us were only given "waitlist" on their e-tickets. Still everyone of us were able to board onto the trains at last and slept in our wanted berths with or without "confirmed" status. Yes the ticket system is so confusing but this wasn't yet the most challenging part! The most challenging part was to find the right platforms, and I don't think reading any researches in advance will give you any practical help, the stations that we went were all completely chaotic, that we could never locate any signboard that clearly displays the information of the trains, every time we had to ask a number of locals to help us indicating the right platforms and the right trains. Seriously I don't think I could ever fully understand how the Indian train works, no matter how many more rides I would have in my life.

乘搭印度火车一定是一件最叫人兴奋却又最懊恼的事情。印度的火车系统会在火车出发前90天开始在网上售票,但很多时候车票会在短短数小时之内就会卖光。而我们要搭的所有火车都是长途夜间火车,大家都想确保能够订到有冷气的二等车厢 AC2 车票,不希望被困在又挤又焗又热的三等车厢一整晚,于是我们早于三个月之前就开始在 乖乖的订票。我们大部份人的大部份车程都能够买到 "confirmed"(确定)的票种,但我们有几个人的几个车程就只能够买到 "waitlist"(后补)的票种。但是最后无论有没有 "confirmed" 的字样印在我们的电子票上,我们全部人最后都能够顺利的上车舒服的睡在我们想要住的二等车厢里面。对啦!这个系统听起来真的很混乱!但这也不算是最具挑战性的部份!最具挑战性的部份就是如何寻找正确的月台,而我不认为你在出发之前阅读什么资料可以实制的帮到你,因为印度的每一个火车站都很混乱,我们从没看见什么告示牌之类会清楚的显示火车详情,每一次我们都要找好几个印度人去问清楚月台哪里来火车哪里去才能够放心上车。老实说,不管我再坐多少回印度火车也好,我相信我永远也不会明白它是如何运作。

The overnight trip to Varanasi was like an never ending one to us, when the worst conditions all showed up in this place. We kept seeing cow and cow shits, dog and dog shits, chicken and chicken shits, and of cause only smelling shits while we were shuttling through the super narrow alleyways looking for our guesthouse when we first arrived. Our guesthouse Suraj Guest House was actually a very cozy place with friendly staffs and lovely rabbits, but very unfortunately they only had fan but not no air-conditioning so we were all being barbecued by the flaming sun. We hired a our tourist guide through the guesthouse and this young man guided us to a boat ride on the Ganges River; on the river kept seeing different forms of living creatures swimming together, despite the fact that pile and pile of rubbish were floating on the sacred water.

我们在 Varanasi 就只逗留了一天但感觉就好像是没了没完的日子,应该是因为最恶劣的环境都同一时间出现在这个地方。当我们刚刚到步,要在千千万万条超窄的小巷之中穿梭去寻找旅馆的时候,我们的眼前就只看到牛跟牛屎,狗跟狗屎,鸡跟鸡屎,当然还只有闻到屎跟屎的味道。其实我们的旅馆 Suraj Guest House 是个蛮舒适的地方,它们的员工也很友善,而且还有可爱的小白兔跟我们玩耍,但最不幸的就是那里只有风机却没有冷气,所以我们都变成了太阳伯伯的烤肉。旅馆给我们介绍了一名年青导游带我们坐小船游恒河,而在神圣的河水上面我们就只看见一堆一堆的垃圾在浮动,还有就是很多不同种类的生物一起在游泳。

Our trip to Agra was only to see Taj Mahal, and the heritage was of cause beautiful. Strange thing was that we started to notice that we were always among Indian tourists at all the landmarks we visited, but it wasn't too difficult to understand that not too many foreign tourists would have the guts to visit India during her hottest days.

我们去 Agra 当然是为了看 Taj Mahal,而这个景点当然也很漂亮。但最奇怪的是我们开始发现我们每每到达的景点就只会见到印度旅客,但其实也不难理解,试问哪里会来个外国旅客有着这么大的胆子会在印度最热的月份去作观光呢。

We weren't expecting anything modern until we reached Jaipur, there we finally saw familiar brands like McDonalds, KFC, Levi's, Nokia or Samsung, we were all surprised and happy because we could take a little break from the curry menu that we had three meals a day along the way. However surprises do always come with unexpectedness, during a day when a dust tornado suddenly arrived in this Pink City, one of our friends was sent to a hospital nearby because he was diagnosed to have contracted Dengue Fever, also immediately the next day he returned to New Delhi to took the earliest flight home to continue the treatment; one very lucky thing was that the owner of our guesthouse Vinayak Guest House was being very helpful, without him we could never easily find a doctor to check on our friend when dust were blown high in the air.

在到达 Jaipur 之前我们并没有期望会遇到什么现代化的东西,但在那里我们终于看见熟悉的名字就好像是 McDonalds, KFC, Levi's, Nokia 或是 Samsung,我们全都很惊喜很开心,因为我们终于可以跟一直以来一天三餐的印度咖哩暂时的说声再见。但是惊喜通常都是跟着意外而来,有一天当一场沙尘暴突然的降落在这个粉红之城,我们其中一位朋友的身体感到异常的不适。幸好 Vinayak Guest House 的老板非常帮忙,在沙尘高飞之际给我们的朋友找到了一位医生给他看病。原来友人染上了登革热症,当晚就要被送进医院,而在留院一晚过后的第二天他便立刻回到 New Delhi 乘坐最早的那一班飞机赶回家继续医病。

Jaisalmer was our last stop in India, it was so hot that the temperature went up to around 45°C during the midday. Everyday we all slept until late in our air-conditioning hotel room and we only went out from like 4pm in the afternoon. We had an interesting walk around the old town and there at the peak of the fort we oversaw the charming scenery of entire Desert City, also we went for a camel safari to get to a super windy and sandy desert, where we enjoyed a lovely sunset that was almost covered by falling sand.

Jaisalmer 是我们在印度的最后一站,那个地方实在是太热太热,中午时候的温度甚至上升至大约45°C。我们每天都留在冷气房间里面睡到很晚,直到下午四时左右才外出走走。我们一起到过旧城区闲逛,在堡垒的顶端俯瞰整个沙漠之城的迷人风景,而且我们还一起的骑过骆驼, 一步一步的走进风沙滚滚的沙漠,去欣赏被黄沙包围的日落。

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