India 2011 印度

India is extremely hot and loud and chaotic
With no air no pause no logic
Everything is so messed up so perfectly messed up
That makes her an irresistibly charming place that you will never forget

印度是極度的悶熱 嘈吵 混亂
沒有生風 沒有停頓 沒有邏輯
一切就是很混亂 絕對的很混亂

Sri Lanka > Maldives > India > Nepal > Tibet - 2011 - 斯里蘭卡 > 馬爾代夫 > 印度 > 尼泊爾 > 西藏

India Itinerary 印度行程 – New Delhi > Varanasi > Agra > Jaipur > Jaisalmer

Arriving in India in late May allowed us to feel the real flame of the country, we were sweating every single second no matter what we were doing. It wasn't just very hot but also very very dry, that I felt like I was becoming 20 years older, having wrinkles appearing all over my face. Also we felt like dehydrating all the time, that we kept drinking like 5 litres of water a day and still we wanted more.


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Our first night in New Delhi, the capital of India, was quite a memorable one, we landed in a totally different world after having our fast and clean train transporting us from the very modern airport to New Delhi Station, the heart of the city. The roads were full of moving people, running traffics and walking animals; we were smelling curry, seeing dust, and hearing all sorts of loud sound, all at the same time. Our pre-booked hostel Smyle Inn was hidden inside one of the million alleyways in the Main Bazaar; the backpacker-oriented area that sells all kinds of bargain stocks. We managed to find our hostel in the dark and we also managed to sleep in our bloody crap room that had no air-conditioning under 38 °C. Yes it was very uneasy to let ourselves fall asleep but I guess we were kinda testing our limitation wanting to know how hot we could bear!! Well, after we passed our test we moved to My Inn the next day, a much better hostel not only having air-conditioning but also WiFi in the reception. The price of our lodging in New Delhi was the highest among all the places we visited in India, still all the prices were considered very cheap to us and we never paid more than USD $10 per person for everywhere we stayed.

我們在印度首都新德里 (New Delhi) 的第一個晚上也真難忘,在乘搭過一輛非常乾淨快捷的列車由機場到達市中心的 New Delhi Station 之後,我們完全的進入了另一個世界。馬路上到處都是行走著的人群、來往中的車輛、以及移動著的禽畜;同時間我們聞到咖哩的味道、看到沙塵的移動、還有聽到嘈吵的聲響。我們預訂了的旅館 Smyle Inn 躲藏於 Main Bazzar 這個背包客集中地裡面的其中一條小巷之中。這裡是個非常熱鬧區域,到處都可見小販商鋪,售賣各式各款的廉價貨品。我們勉強的在黑夜之中找到了旅館,也非常勉強的在38 °C極高溫之下於沒有冷氣的垃圾房間裡面睡了一整晚。對呵真的是超難入睡!其實我們都是在挑戰極限!看大家能抵多熱!當我們成功通過抵熱測試之後,第二天我們搬進了對面的 My Inn,這是一間蠻好的旅館,不單房間有冷氣,大堂還有 WiFi。在印度整個旅程的住宿裡面,雖然新德里的價錢經已是最貴,但我們還是很覺得便宜,因為我們每人每晚都未曾付出多過 USD $10 的房租。

We visited a number of landmarks around New Delhi, including Red Fort, Indian Gate, Qutub Minar and Safdarjung Tomb. We were taking underground for most of the travel, however the distance between the stations and landmarks were all far away, and the walks could took us up to 30 minutes or more to reach where we wanted to go.

我們在 New Delhi 到過好幾個景點,包括 Red Fort,Indian Gate,Qutub Minar 以及 Safdarjung Tomb。基本上我們都是乘搭地鐵,可是地鐵站與景點的距離卻又很遠,很多時候我們要走起碼30分鐘的時間才能夠到達我們想去的地方。

The Indian train must be one of the most exciting and frustrating thing to do in India. All our trains were long distance overnight trains and we all wanted to secure our AC2 (air-conditioning second class) berths because we didn't want to end up standing all night long in the packed and steaming third class, therefore we booked our tickets 3 months in advance from since we knew the tickets could sold out within hours once the system opens its sales 90 days before departure; most of us could get "confirmed" seat for most of our journeys but some of us were only given "waitlist" on their e-tickets. Still everyone of us were able to board onto the trains at last and slept in our wanted berths with or without "confirmed" status. Yes the ticket system is so confusing but this wasn't yet the most challenging part! The most challenging part was to find the right platforms, and I don't think reading any researches in advance will give you any practical help, the stations that we went were all completely chaotic, that we could never locate any signboard that clearly displays the information of the trains, every time we had to ask a number of locals to help us indicating the right platforms and the right trains. Seriously I don't think I could ever fully understand how the Indian train works, no matter how many more rides I would have in my life.

乘搭印度火車一定是一件最叫人興奮卻又最懊惱的事情。印度的火車系統會在火車出發前90天開始在網上售票,但很多時候車票會在短短數小時之內就會賣光。而我們要搭的所有火車都是長途夜間火車,大家都想確保能夠訂到有冷氣的二等車廂 AC2 車票,不希望被困在又擠又焗又熱的三等車廂一整晚,於是我們早於三個月之前就開始在 乖乖的訂票。我們大部份人的大部份車程都能夠買到 "confirmed"(確定)的票種,但我們有幾個人的幾個車程就只能夠買到 "waitlist"(後補)的票種。但是最後無論有沒有 "confirmed" 的字樣印在我們的電子票上,我們全部人最後都能夠順利的上車舒服的睡在我們想要住的二等車廂裡面。對啦!這個系統聽起來真的很混亂!但這也不算是最具挑戰性的部份!最具挑戰性的部份就是如何尋找正確的月台,而我不認為你在出發之前閱讀什麼資料可以實制的幫到你,因為印度的每一個火車站都很混亂,我們從沒看見什麼告示牌之類會清楚的顯示火車詳情,每一次我們都要找好幾個印度人去問清楚月台哪裡來火車哪裡去才能夠放心上車。老實說,不管我再坐多少回印度火車也好,我相信我永遠也不會明白它是如何運作。

The overnight trip to Varanasi was like an never ending one to us, when the worst conditions all showed up in this place. We kept seeing cow and cow shits, dog and dog shits, chicken and chicken shits, and of cause only smelling shits while we were shuttling through the super narrow alleyways looking for our guesthouse when we first arrived. Our guesthouse Suraj Guest House was actually a very cozy place with friendly staffs and lovely rabbits, but very unfortunately they only had fan but not no air-conditioning so we were all being barbecued by the flaming sun. We hired a our tourist guide through the guesthouse and this young man guided us to a boat ride on the Ganges River; on the river kept seeing different forms of living creatures swimming together, despite the fact that pile and pile of rubbish were floating on the sacred water.

我們在 Varanasi 就只逗留了一天但感覺就好像是沒了沒完的日子,應該是因為最惡劣的環境都同一時間出現在這個地方。當我們剛剛到步,要在千千萬萬條超窄的小巷之中穿梭去尋找旅館的時候,我們的眼前就只看到牛跟牛屎,狗跟狗屎,雞跟雞屎,當然還只有聞到屎跟屎的味道。其實我們的旅館 Suraj Guest House 是個蠻舒適的地方,它們的員工也很友善,而且還有可愛的小白兔跟我們玩耍,但最不幸的就是那裡只有風機卻沒有冷氣,所以我們都變成了太陽伯伯的烤肉。旅館給我們介紹了一名年青導遊帶我們坐小船遊恆河,而在神聖的河水上面我們就只看見一堆一堆的垃圾在浮動,還有就是很多不同種類的生物一起在游泳。

Our trip to Agra was only to see Taj Mahal, and the heritage was of cause beautiful. Strange thing was that we started to notice that we were always among Indian tourists at all the landmarks we visited, but it wasn't too difficult to understand that not too many foreign tourists would have the guts to visit India during her hottest days.

我們去 Agra 當然是為了看 Taj Mahal,而這個景點當然也很漂亮。但最奇怪的是我們開始發現我們每每到達的景點就只會見到印度旅客,但其實也不難理解,試問哪裡會來個外國旅客有著這麼大的膽子會在印度最熱的月份去作觀光呢。

We weren't expecting anything modern until we reached Jaipur, there we finally saw familiar brands like McDonalds, KFC, Levi's, Nokia or Samsung, we were all surprised and happy because we could take a little break from the curry menu that we had three meals a day along the way. However surprises do always come with unexpectedness, during a day when a dust tornado suddenly arrived in this Pink City, one of our friends was sent to a hospital nearby because he was diagnosed to have contracted Dengue Fever, also immediately the next day he returned to New Delhi to took the earliest flight home to continue the treatment; one very lucky thing was that the owner of our guesthouse Vinayak Guest House was being very helpful, without him we could never easily find a doctor to check on our friend when dust were blown high in the air.

在到達 Jaipur 之前我們並沒有期望會遇到什麼現代化的東西,但在那裡我們終於看見熟悉的名字就好像是 McDonalds, KFC, Levi's, Nokia 或是 Samsung,我們全都很驚喜很開心,因為我們終於可以跟一直以來一天三餐的印度咖哩暫時的說聲再見。但是驚喜通常都是跟著意外而來,有一天當一場沙塵暴突然的降落在這個粉红之城,我們其中一位朋友的身體感到異常的不適。幸好 Vinayak Guest House 的老闆非常幫忙,在沙塵高飛之際給我們的朋友找到了一位醫生給他看病。原來友人染上了登革熱症,當晚就要被送進醫院,而在留院一晚過後的第二天他便立刻回到 New Delhi 乘坐最早的那一班飛機趕回家繼續醫病。

Jaisalmer was our last stop in India, it was so hot that the temperature went up to around 45°C during the midday. Everyday we all slept until late in our air-conditioning hotel room and we only went out from like 4pm in the afternoon. We had an interesting walk around the old town and there at the peak of the fort we oversaw the charming scenery of entire Desert City, also we went for a camel safari to get to a super windy and sandy desert, where we enjoyed a lovely sunset that was almost covered by falling sand.

Jaisalmer 是我們在印度的最後一站,那個地方實在是太熱太熱,中午時候的溫度甚至上升至大約45°C。我們每天都留在冷氣房間裡面睡到很晚,直到下午四時左右才外出走走。我們一起到過舊城區閑逛,在堡壘的頂端俯瞰整個沙漠之城的迷人風景,而且我們還一起的騎過駱駝, 一步一步的走進風沙滾滾的沙漠,去欣賞被黃沙包圍的日落。

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